Category: Travel

Cartagena, Colombia

by BJM Publishing, posted in Adventure, Travel

A long time ago, 1987 to be exact I had the good fortune to tag along with a travel agent who was checking out Cartagena for her agency in order to make suggestions to their customers on where to stay, what to see and do and rate some restaurants. Not a hard assignment really. We stayed at the Hotel Capilla del Mar which had opened only two years previous. I recently looked it up and the rates are still very reasonable (at least off season) and the reviews complimentary, especially regarding the breakfast buffet. Other things going for it are the proximity to the beach, the rooftop pool and the friendly staff; and though we took a cab from the airport at the time, they now offer a shuttle bus.

At that time the luxury hotel of choice which we walked to was located at the very end of the peninsula – the Hotel Caribe. As Cartagena’s historic premier property, it was the city’s original grand resort (built in 1945). Known for its beautiful neocolonial architecture, expansive tropical gardens, and prestige, it remained a legendary social hub and flagship for high-end travelers throughout the 1980s. We only had cocktails there as we were not members of the posh elite.

We did however, have a great time in Cartagena. Seeing what looked like 15 year old kids toting machine guns was a little off putting but I’m pretty sure things have changed since then. During the late 1980s and 1990s—the height of Colombia’s drug war and internal conflicts—visible military personnel carrying automatic weapons were a common security measure in major cities and tourist zones to deter cartels and insurgent groups. While you don’t have to worry about a war-zone atmosphere, modern safety concerns have shifted to opportunistic street crime. The biggest nuisances on the beaches today are incredibly aggressive street vendors, pickpockets, and overcharging scams.

We body surfed in the ocean and sun bathed by the pool and bought fresh fruit when we needed a snack and walked for long distances on the beach, stopping every so often at a little pizzeria or patio for a refreshment and later on at night to listen to local musicians and RELAX.

Perched on the highest point in Cartagena, Convento de la Popa (The Convent of the Stern) is an absolute must-visit for the best panoramic views in the city. Built by Augustinian monks in the early 17th century, the convent gets its unique name because the hill it sits on resembles the stern (la popa) of a ship. Historically, it served a dual purpose: a sanctuary for faith and a strategic lookout point to spot approaching pirate ships.

Today, it offers a peaceful, historic escape from the bustling streets below. The convent features a stunning, Spanish-style interior cloister filled with bright, cascading flowers and beautiful colonial arches.

Travel Tip: Do not attempt to walk up the hill, as the path isn’t safe for pedestrians. Instead, take a licensed taxi or an organized tour right to the entrance at the top. It’s best visited in the morning or late afternoon to catch the golden light and avoid the midday heat!

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas is a formidable fortress dominating the Cartagena skyline, and is a designated UNESCO World Heritage site.

Located on the Hill of San Lázaro, it was strategically positioned to protect the city from landward attacks and to guard the vital entrance to the bay. Built in 1657 and expanded significantly in 1762, the fortress was virtually impregnable. The fort is designed so that if attackers managed to breach one section, the defenders could retreat to a higher point and fire down onto the captured area. Its geometric angles left absolutely no blind spots for approaching enemies.

One of the most fascinating features is the vast underground network of tunnels. At the very top of the fortress, a massive Colombian flag flies proudly, providing a great backdrop for photos. Just like La Popa, it offers incredible views of the city, but from a closer vantage point. You get an excellent look at the Old Town walls and the surrounding water.

Travel Tip: There is very little shade on the fortress, and the stone traps the heat, making it feel like an oven by midday. Visit early in the morning right when it opens, bring plenty of water, and wear a hat!

Just outside the Walled City, Getsemaní is the cultural heartbeat of Cartagena. Historically a working-class neighborhood settled by artisans and freed slaves, it has transformed into a vibrant hub of street art, music, and local life. Gathering on the walls to watch the sun sink into the Caribbean Sea is a daily ritual.

  • What to do: Walk down the colorful, umbrella-lined Calle de las Sombrillas and check out the political and cultural murals.
  • The Night Vibe: In the evening, head to Plaza de la Trinidad. Locals and tourists gather here to eat street food, drink cold Aguila beers, watch street performers, and listen to live music.

You cannot leave without eating local Caribbean food. La Cevicheria (made globally famous by Anthony Bourdain) is still a legendary spot for fresh, lime-cured seafood, though you should expect a wait!

Doris was widely considered the most traditional, upscale, and celebrated restaurant in Cartagena during the 1970s and 1980s (famous for its exquisite seafood and massive lobster festivals), it unfortunately has closed it’s doors but we had a splendid seafood dinner there. Unlike Doris, La Langosta Latina is still around, successfully serving seafood in Cartagena for nearly 40 years. Opened back in 1985, it is one of the city’s true legacy seafood establishments. It retains a very traditional, white-tablecloth, upscale Caribbean-classic atmosphere. Because it sits slightly outside the frantic main tourist grid of the Walled City, it usually offers a more relaxed, white-glove dining experience that recalls Cartagena’s golden era of dining.

Colombia produces anywhere from 70% to 90% of the world’s finest emeralds, Because Cartagena is a massive cruise ship and international tourist hub, it is flooded with high-priced tourist traps, aggressive commission-seeking tour guides, and outright street scams. Always buy at a reputable shop and ask for a certified authenticity Guarantee. Never buy on the Street as they are almost universally fake. Don’t take recommendations from tour guides, taxi drivers, and in some cases hotel concierge as their will be 10 -30 % kickback commissions added directly to the price tag. Walk in on your own. You can get a lovely stone at a decent price if you know what you are doing.

Now the main reason I wanted to tag along besides the fact that my room was paid for was that I would be able to go scuba diving in just a bathing suit in temperate 82 – 84 degree water and see colorful coral life and dense schools of colorful reef fish: blue tangs, parrotfish, triggerfish, angelfish, and macro life like seahorses and arrow crabs; instead of a rubber suit dive in the usual weeds and old truck tires of cold, murky Canadian lakes. You don’t always have to go all the way to the islands. There are some fascinating spots closer to the city lines, including a collection of about seven intentionally sunken barges, ships, and even an airplane that create excellent wreck dives

That to me was the highlight of the trip, when you are swimming below the water and marvelling at all the activity, color and beauty of the ocean, it is like time stands still and another different world opens up. It was simply breathtaking and something I shall never forget. Image below is AI generated as I did not possess an underwater camera at the time

The Mirador in San Miguel de Allende

by BJM Publishing, posted in Adventure, Travel

There are certain experiences in life that sound charming in theory and feel like a personal vendetta in practice. The Mirador in San Miguel de Allende falls neatly into that category.

Now, if you’ve never heard of it, the Mirador is essentially a scenic lookout perched above the town, offering postcard-perfect views of terracotta rooftops, church spires, and that golden, late-afternoon glow that makes everyone briefly consider quitting their job and moving to Mexico. It’s lovely. Truly.

Getting there, however, is another matter entirely.

Let me translate it into Canadian: imagine climbing the stairs of the CN Tower for fun. Then add a dash of the Grouse Grind for personality. Sprinkle in 30-degree heat and the faint suspicion that you’ve made a series of poor life choices. That’s the Mirador walk.

Naturally, this is how our day unfolded.

The plan, you see, was simple. Innocent, even. A quick stop at El Manantial, a charming little bar we had spotted in a YouTube video. It promised excellent margaritas, Day of the Dead murals, and swinging saloon doors, which frankly sounds like the beginning of a very good decision. After that, a civilized dinner on a rooftop near the Jardín. Easy.

We had already been walking for about half an hour when we wandered through a park hosting an art show, paintings, sculptures, the kind of cultural detour that makes you feel pleasantly accomplished. Then we exited the park, consulted our GPS with blind faith, and spotted a staircase. A staircase that, in hindsight, was less “shortcut” and more “ominous prologue.” Up we went.

At the top, we paused, lungs filing a formal complaint, and were rewarded with a sculpture of a giant hand, which I had seen online and never located. “Well,” I thought, “this is going splendidly.” A bonus discovery. A triumph. That, as it turns out, was the last coherent positive thought I had for quite some time.

Because just around the corner… more stairs. And then more.

And then the slow, creeping realization. That dawning horror. The mental replay of earlier advice: “Don’t walk to the Mirador. Take a cab. You’ll thank us.” We had, in fact, taken a cab up there previously for precisely this reason. And now, like two stubborn protagonists in a cautionary tale, we were doing the one thing we had explicitly been trying to avoid. “For fuk’s sake,” I muttered between gasps, “how stupid are we?”

The stairs came in waves. You’d crest one set, heart pounding like a percussion section, only to round a corner and be greeted by another flight, waiting patiently like it had all day to ruin you.

We stopped at least four times. Possibly more. Time loses meaning when you’re negotiating with your own cardiovascular system. Thankfully, we had a bottle of water, which we drained with the reverence of people who now understood the value of hydration on a spiritual level. The sun, meanwhile, had decided to participate enthusiastically, turning the whole ordeal into a slow roast.

There were two other women making the climb. One looked about half my age and stopped just as often, which provided a small, petty comfort. Misery loves company, especially when it’s wheezing beside you. At one point, while we were paused and pretending this was all part of a fitness plan, my husband casually remarked, “If I have a heart attack, just roll me down the hill. It’ll be easier for the medics.”

By then, I had entered a new phase of the journey: open hostility. I was swearing like a long-haul trucker and no longer cared if we ever reached the restaurant, civilization, or the afterlife. And then, finally, the summit.

We reached the top around four o’clock, having left the house at 2:30. A brisk outing, if you define “brisk” as “an endurance event.”

We found El Manantial, collapsed into two chairs, and ordered margaritas with the urgency of people who had just survived something mildly heroic. Ken disappeared to the washroom. I sat there, oddly fascinated by the fact that I didn’t need to go. Not even slightly. It turns out that when you sweat out your entire body weight, certain systems take a break.

After a restorative pause and the slow return of dignity, we made our way back down toward the Jardín. I stationed myself in the square, listening to mariachi bands and contemplating my life choices, while Ken secured a reservation at Trazo 1810. And here’s the important part: it has an elevator. A glorious, civilization-affirming elevator.

Dinner was lovely. Wine was involved. The moon rose obligingly, casting that soft silver glow over the rooftops as if to say, See? Worth it. And in fairness, it did save the day. As for the Mirador? The view is undeniably beautiful. The journey up? Character-building, they say.

Personally, I feel I’ve built quite enough character already. Another glass of wine, por favor!

A tiny Principality between Austria and Switzerland

by BJM Publishing, posted in Adventure, Art, Gardens and/or Museums, Travel

It was established in 1719 and achieved full independence in 1866.
Situated between Austria and Switzerland, Liechtenstein is one of only two doubly landlocked countries (along with Uzbekistan) in the world. The capital city is Vaduz.

It spans about 62 square miles, making it the sixth smallest country on Earth. (Following Vatican City, Monaco, Nauru, Tuvalu, and San Marino). It has a population of about 39,000. The terrain is mountainous, ideal for skiing, and largely covered by the Alps. It is a parliamentary monarchy with a Prince (Head of State) who holds significant political powers, including vetoing legislation.

Vaduz Castle (German: Schloss Vaduz) is the palace and official residence of the Prince of Liechtenstein. In 1984, Prince Franz Joseph handed over power and everyday duties of the monarch to Hans-Adam, with Hans-Adam thus becoming regent, while his father remained the nominal monarch.

Following his father’s death in 1989, Hans-Adam officially ascended to the throne. On August 15, 2004, Hans-Adam formally handed the power of making day-to-day governmental decisions to his eldest son Hereditary Prince Alois as regent, as a way of beginning a dynastic transition to a new generation.

Legally, Hans-Adam remains the head of state. Hans-Adam is no mere figurehead prince. He is much wealthier and much more powerful than Britain’s Charles III, with a fortune of $12.6 billion, according to Bloomberg. This is 25 percent more than the annual GDP of “his” country, over which his family exercises complete control.

German is the official language. The population is predominately Roman Catholic. You can explore the entirety of this tiny country by walking its 75-kilometre-long national trail from Balzers on the Swiss border to Schaanwald on the Austrian one if one were so inclined. Known for a strong banking sector and tax-efficient system.

The currency used in Liechtenstein is the Swiss franc. Industry (manufacturing and construction) accounts for 42.2% of the gross domestic product (GDP). The largest branches in Liechtenstein’s strongly export-oriented industrial sector are machine and tool engineering, plant construction, precision instruments, and the dental and food sectors. Liechtenstein disbanded its army in 1868, and has had no standing army since. It also does not have an airport; you normally reach this tiny principality by train and/or bus/ and car.

What’s more fun than looking at some of the tiniest pieces of art? Postal stamps. Like Liechtenstein, they are small but mighty, and you can explore a museum entirely dedicated to Liechtenstein’s unique stamps. This museum is small, so it won’t take a lot of your time, but it’s worth popping in to see Liechtensteinian postage stamps through time. The country began creating postage stamps in the early 20th century, and since then, hundreds of beautiful and meaningful designs have been created. It was part of my mission when I toured Europe to obtain some of these stamps for my brother who was a stamp collector (Philatelist). Sadly, I did not keep any for myself. If interested click on link for the postal museum.

https://www.landesmuseum.li/en/our-museums/postalmuseum

With no photos allowed and a relatively small collection, many visitors seem to find the Liechtenstein Treasure Chamber a bit of a let down. I didn’t find it that way though. While the room is small, it’s packed with unique treasures, including the Liechtenstein royal coronet, an ultra rare ‘Apple Blossom’ Fabergé Egg, and even a piece of moon rock from the Apollo 11 mission.

The 1901 Fabergé Apple Blossom Easter Egg is rumoured to be worth £30 million

For culture lovers, another must-see in Vaduz is the Kunstmuseum Liechtenstein, a contemporary art museum showcasing international and local talent in a striking, modern building. If you are not into modern art, however, it may not be for you. Even if you only get a stamp in your passport, Liechtenstein is worth a visit. Go explore and make memories!

WHIMSY IN GRIMSBY

by BJM Publishing, posted in Adventure, Art, Travel

Grimsby, Ontario, is a town located on the southern shore of Lake Ontario. It serves as the westernmost municipality of Niagara, situated west of Hamilton and east of St. Catharines. Bordered to the south by the Niagara Escarpment and known as the “gateway to Niagara” it is roughly 25-30 km east of Hamilton, and about 80-90 km southwest of Toronto and accessible from the QEW.

In this picturesque town is a neighbourhood of unique and quite extraordinary houses that will pull at the Alice in Wonderland child inside you. As people do live here; if you visit, you should be respectful of their properties and not trespass unless invited in.

“Collectively known as the Painted Ladies” – An amazing collection of a couple dozen century cottages. Each has it’s own unique, whimsical painting scheme. Today, most of the cottages have been renovated and have become year-round houses. They are colorfully painted in shades of yellow, blue, pink, purple, and green and meticulously maintained by their owner occupants. If you are in the area, you should definitely stop and take a walk around, maybe dip your toes in the historical beach a few streets away.