Cartagena, Colombia

A long time ago, 1987 to be exact I had the good fortune to tag along with a travel agent who was checking out Cartagena for her agency in order to make suggestions to their customers on where to stay, what to see and do and rate some restaurants. Not a hard assignment really. We stayed at the Hotel Capilla del Mar which had opened only two years previous. I recently looked it up and the rates are still very reasonable (at least off season) and the reviews complimentary, especially regarding the breakfast buffet. Other things going for it are the proximity to the beach, the rooftop pool and the friendly staff; and though we took a cab from the airport at the time, they now offer a shuttle bus.

At that time the luxury hotel of choice which we walked to was located at the very end of the peninsula – the Hotel Caribe. As Cartagena’s historic premier property, it was the city’s original grand resort (built in 1945). Known for its beautiful neocolonial architecture, expansive tropical gardens, and prestige, it remained a legendary social hub and flagship for high-end travelers throughout the 1980s. We only had cocktails there as we were not members of the posh elite.

We did however, have a great time in Cartagena. Seeing what looked like 15 year old kids toting machine guns was a little off putting but I’m pretty sure things have changed since then. During the late 1980s and 1990s—the height of Colombia’s drug war and internal conflicts—visible military personnel carrying automatic weapons were a common security measure in major cities and tourist zones to deter cartels and insurgent groups. While you don’t have to worry about a war-zone atmosphere, modern safety concerns have shifted to opportunistic street crime. The biggest nuisances on the beaches today are incredibly aggressive street vendors, pickpockets, and overcharging scams.

We body surfed in the ocean and sun bathed by the pool and bought fresh fruit when we needed a snack and walked for long distances on the beach, stopping every so often at a little pizzeria or patio for a refreshment and later on at night to listen to local musicians and RELAX.

Perched on the highest point in Cartagena, Convento de la Popa (The Convent of the Stern) is an absolute must-visit for the best panoramic views in the city. Built by Augustinian monks in the early 17th century, the convent gets its unique name because the hill it sits on resembles the stern (la popa) of a ship. Historically, it served a dual purpose: a sanctuary for faith and a strategic lookout point to spot approaching pirate ships.

Today, it offers a peaceful, historic escape from the bustling streets below. The convent features a stunning, Spanish-style interior cloister filled with bright, cascading flowers and beautiful colonial arches.

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas is a formidable fortress dominating the Cartagena skyline, and is a designated UNESCO World Heritage site.

Located on the Hill of San Lázaro, it was strategically positioned to protect the city from landward attacks and to guard the vital entrance to the bay. Built in 1657 and expanded significantly in 1762, the fortress was virtually impregnable. The fort is designed so that if attackers managed to breach one section, the defenders could retreat to a higher point and fire down onto the captured area. Its geometric angles left absolutely no blind spots for approaching enemies.

One of the most fascinating features is the vast underground network of tunnels. At the very top of the fortress, a massive Colombian flag flies proudly, providing a great backdrop for photos. Just like La Popa, it offers incredible views of the city, but from a closer vantage point. You get an excellent look at the Old Town walls and the surrounding water.

Just outside the Walled City, Getsemaní is the cultural heartbeat of Cartagena. Historically a working-class neighborhood settled by artisans and freed slaves, it has transformed into a vibrant hub of street art, music, and local life. Gathering on the walls to watch the sun sink into the Caribbean Sea is a daily ritual.

  • What to do: Walk down the colorful, umbrella-lined Calle de las Sombrillas and check out the political and cultural murals.
  • The Night Vibe: In the evening, head to Plaza de la Trinidad. Locals and tourists gather here to eat street food, drink cold Aguila beers, watch street performers, and listen to live music.

You cannot leave without eating local Caribbean food. La Cevicheria (made globally famous by Anthony Bourdain) is still a legendary spot for fresh, lime-cured seafood, though you should expect a wait!

Doris was widely considered the most traditional, upscale, and celebrated restaurant in Cartagena during the 1970s and 1980s (famous for its exquisite seafood and massive lobster festivals), it unfortunately has closed it’s doors but we had a splendid seafood dinner there. Unlike Doris, La Langosta Latina is still around, successfully serving seafood in Cartagena for nearly 40 years. Opened back in 1985, it is one of the city’s true legacy seafood establishments. It retains a very traditional, white-tablecloth, upscale Caribbean-classic atmosphere. Because it sits slightly outside the frantic main tourist grid of the Walled City, it usually offers a more relaxed, white-glove dining experience that recalls Cartagena’s golden era of dining.

Colombia produces anywhere from 70% to 90% of the world’s finest emeralds, Because Cartagena is a massive cruise ship and international tourist hub, it is flooded with high-priced tourist traps, aggressive commission-seeking tour guides, and outright street scams. Always buy at a reputable shop and ask for a certified authenticity Guarantee. Never buy on the Street as they are almost universally fake. Don’t take recommendations from tour guides, taxi drivers, and in some cases hotel concierge as their will be 10 -30 % kickback commissions added directly to the price tag. Walk in on your own. You can get a lovely stone at a decent price if you know what you are doing.

Now the main reason I wanted to tag along besides the fact that my room was paid for was that I would be able to go scuba diving in just a bathing suit in temperate 82 – 84 degree water and see colorful coral life and dense schools of colorful reef fish: blue tangs, parrotfish, triggerfish, angelfish, and macro life like seahorses and arrow crabs; instead of a rubber suit dive in the usual weeds and old truck tires of cold, murky Canadian lakes. You don’t always have to go all the way to the islands. There are some fascinating spots closer to the city lines, including a collection of about seven intentionally sunken barges, ships, and even an airplane that create excellent wreck dives

That to me was the highlight of the trip, when you are swimming below the water and marvelling at all the activity, color and beauty of the ocean, it is like time stands still and another different world opens up. It was simply breathtaking and something I shall never forget. Image below is AI generated as I did not possess an underwater camera at the time

On Friendship

“The most beautiful discovery true friends make is that they can grow separately without growing apart.”

There are four types of friendship –

Acquaintances – those you have at work or school but don’t make plans with outside of that sphere, and those that you meet on your travels.

Casual friends are those in your group that you see from time to time and enjoy their company but don’t go out of your way to pursue. Those you share hobbies with or light-hearted social engagements.

Close Friends are those you get together with and have deep, philosophical discussions, catch movies together, go out to dine from time to time and have the same values. You know you can trust them and they provide a space where you can vent and grow without being judged.

Lifelong Friends are those that know where the bodies are buried. They have and will always have your back. When they call and ask you to come and pick them up no matter where or when, you go no questions asked because they would do the same for you.

True friends stab you in the front – Oscar Wilde

I think you need to have the ability to laugh at yourself and take the piss out of a friend that is getting too high on themselves and you should do all right in life! Gauche, but true, live, love and laugh.

On a Carousel trying to catch up with you

I am an avid fan of the merry-go-round or carousel if you prefer. Riding a carousel is something almost everyone can do. But it’s more than just going around in circles.

The joy of the carousel is the simple pleasure of being free to go somewhere but nowhere at all. Merry-go-rounds are the luxury of time. For those few minutes, nothing is asked of us but to enjoy the ride.

I appreciate the painstaking effort of the carvers who made such exquisite pieces of art for the wonderment of children and adults a like. Though most carousels I remember had horses and chariots, organ music and lights there have been many made with circus animals, aquatic creatures, and bugs.

Bryant Park carousel

New York City is home to 14 carousels, each with its own distinct personality and history. Le Carrousel is an adorable 14-horse carousel in Bryant Park at 40th Street between 5th and 6th Ave. It has a French style that goes with the rest of Bryant Park.

Le Carrousel is open daily from 11am – 7pm almost all year round. It costs $3.00 per ride. This is the only one I had the opportunity to photograph during the time we were visiting.

Closer to home and an upcoming trip, I hope to get some good photos of the Lakeside Park Carousel in Port Dalhousie, Ontario which is about an hour and a half from our home in Kitchener, Ontario. Built in the early 20th century, it is one of the few remaining wood hand-carved carousels in Canada still operating at its original location, celebrated for its craftsmanship and nostalgic charm. It features 68 hand-carved wooden animals and four chariots and costs 5 cents a ride. Can you believe that?

Situated within Lakeside Park, a scenic area popular for picnics and beaches, the carousel evokes early 20th-century leisure culture. It is also referenced in the song “Lakeside Park” by the Canadian rock band Rush, which memorializes summertime memories at the site—further cementing its place in Canadian popular culture.

I am eagerly awaiting the day we go and will post photos when it happens. In the meantime, what kind of outings do you enjoy?

The Mirador in San Miguel de Allende

There are certain experiences in life that sound charming in theory and feel like a personal vendetta in practice. The Mirador in San Miguel de Allende falls neatly into that category.

Now, if you’ve never heard of it, the Mirador is essentially a scenic lookout perched above the town, offering postcard-perfect views of terracotta rooftops, church spires, and that golden, late-afternoon glow that makes everyone briefly consider quitting their job and moving to Mexico. It’s lovely. Truly.

Getting there, however, is another matter entirely.

Let me translate it into Canadian: imagine climbing the stairs of the CN Tower for fun. Then add a dash of the Grouse Grind for personality. Sprinkle in 30-degree heat and the faint suspicion that you’ve made a series of poor life choices. That’s the Mirador walk.

Naturally, this is how our day unfolded.

The plan, you see, was simple. Innocent, even. A quick stop at El Manantial, a charming little bar we had spotted in a YouTube video. It promised excellent margaritas, Day of the Dead murals, and swinging saloon doors, which frankly sounds like the beginning of a very good decision. After that, a civilized dinner on a rooftop near the Jardín. Easy.

We had already been walking for about half an hour when we wandered through a park hosting an art show, paintings, sculptures, the kind of cultural detour that makes you feel pleasantly accomplished. Then we exited the park, consulted our GPS with blind faith, and spotted a staircase. A staircase that, in hindsight, was less “shortcut” and more “ominous prologue.” Up we went.

At the top, we paused, lungs filing a formal complaint, and were rewarded with a sculpture of a giant hand, which I had seen online and never located. “Well,” I thought, “this is going splendidly.” A bonus discovery. A triumph. That, as it turns out, was the last coherent positive thought I had for quite some time.

Because just around the corner… more stairs. And then more.

And then the slow, creeping realization. That dawning horror. The mental replay of earlier advice: “Don’t walk to the Mirador. Take a cab. You’ll thank us.” We had, in fact, taken a cab up there previously for precisely this reason. And now, like two stubborn protagonists in a cautionary tale, we were doing the one thing we had explicitly been trying to avoid. “For fuk’s sake,” I muttered between gasps, “how stupid are we?”

The stairs came in waves. You’d crest one set, heart pounding like a percussion section, only to round a corner and be greeted by another flight, waiting patiently like it had all day to ruin you.

We stopped at least four times. Possibly more. Time loses meaning when you’re negotiating with your own cardiovascular system. Thankfully, we had a bottle of water, which we drained with the reverence of people who now understood the value of hydration on a spiritual level. The sun, meanwhile, had decided to participate enthusiastically, turning the whole ordeal into a slow roast.

There were two other women making the climb. One looked about half my age and stopped just as often, which provided a small, petty comfort. Misery loves company, especially when it’s wheezing beside you. At one point, while we were paused and pretending this was all part of a fitness plan, my husband casually remarked, “If I have a heart attack, just roll me down the hill. It’ll be easier for the medics.”

By then, I had entered a new phase of the journey: open hostility. I was swearing like a long-haul trucker and no longer cared if we ever reached the restaurant, civilization, or the afterlife. And then, finally, the summit.

We reached the top around four o’clock, having left the house at 2:30. A brisk outing, if you define “brisk” as “an endurance event.”

We found El Manantial, collapsed into two chairs, and ordered margaritas with the urgency of people who had just survived something mildly heroic. Ken disappeared to the washroom. I sat there, oddly fascinated by the fact that I didn’t need to go. Not even slightly. It turns out that when you sweat out your entire body weight, certain systems take a break.

After a restorative pause and the slow return of dignity, we made our way back down toward the Jardín. I stationed myself in the square, listening to mariachi bands and contemplating my life choices, while Ken secured a reservation at Trazo 1810. And here’s the important part: it has an elevator. A glorious, civilization-affirming elevator.

Dinner was lovely. Wine was involved. The moon rose obligingly, casting that soft silver glow over the rooftops as if to say, See? Worth it. And in fairness, it did save the day. As for the Mirador? The view is undeniably beautiful. The journey up? Character-building, they say.

Personally, I feel I’ve built quite enough character already. Another glass of wine, por favor!

Gregory Clark – legendary fisherman and writer

biography of writer Greg Clark

His name was Greg Clark. Before the world got loud and digital, Greg was the voice of Canada. Back in the day, he was more famous than the Prime Minister, and for good reason. The editorial director of Weekend Magazine, once described Clark as “a man so Canadian that no other land could possibly have produced him.”

When he came home a Major, he wrote a story that still haunts the neighbourhood in Toronto. It’s called “One Block of Howland Avenue.” You see, every single young man on his block died in that war, except for Greg and his brother. When they finally came home from the war their father met them at the beginning of the street and begged them to take the long way around—to go through the back alleys—so the grieving neighbours wouldn’t have to see two sons coming home when theirs never would.

Through the 30’s, Greg was the man people turned to. He covered the big stuff—the Lindbergh trial, the forming of the UN, the coronation of a King—but his greatest moment was at the Moose River Mine. When every other reporter packed up and gave up on the trapped miners, Greg stayed. He was there, in the silence of the woods, when the first faint tap-tap-tap came from the earth. He got the scoop because he had the patience to wait.

He won everything—the Order of Canada, the Leacock Medal, honorary doctorates. But if you asked him? He’d probably tell you his proudest moment was being inducted into the Canadian Fishing Hall of Fame.

So, next time you’re in a dusty old bookstore, look for his name. Scour the shelves for a bit of Greg Clark. We could all use a little more of his integrity and his humour in our own lives today.

ASHES TO ASHES

If you should choose to have yourself cremated instead of buried in a cemetery perfectly preserved in whatever state you happened to be in when the grim reaper knocked on your door; there are certainly several methods available to you. Some of the conservative ways are to have your ashes put into an urn and then in a grave or interred into what looks like mailboxes at your local UPS store or placing the urn on your mantelpiece, provided you have a fireplace at home.

We are not interested in boring, we want the dramatic. If we can’t have a Viking shooting an arrow out over the water to set the barge with our remains on fire then – we might consider some of the alternatives in the list below.

  • Underwater Reefs: Ashes are mixed with environmentally safe concrete to form a reef ball placed on the ocean floor, helping to rebuild marine habitats.
  • Vinyl Records: Some services press ashes into a functioning vinyl record, which can include a personalized soundtrack or recorded voice messages.
  • Aerial Scattering: Ashes can be released during a skydive, often from over 10,000 feet, allowing them to disperse over a significant landscape.
  • Cremation Diamonds: Carbon can be extracted from the ashes to create synthetic diamonds which can then be set into jewelry.
  • Hot Air Balloon or Drone Release: Ashes can be scattered from a hot air balloon or a drone over a scenic location for an aerial tribute.
  • Glass Art Pieces: Ashes are mixed with hot glass by artisans to create unique, colorful vases, paperweights, or ornaments.
  • Memorial Tattoo Ink: Remains are sterilized and mixed with tattoo ink, allowing for a permanent memorial tatto
  • Space Burial: A portion of remains can be launched into space, with options for orbiting the Earth, traveling to the moon, or entering a deep-space journey.
  • Memorial Fireworks: Stuffed into fireworks so we can light up the sky one last time and shower sparks and ashes on the family and friends below
  • An Hourglass: Taking some of the ashes, putting them in an hourglass and using it to mark the time at family game nights, probably a preferable option if you spent most of your time at these games, yelling at your opponents or trash talking them. A quieter alternative, if you will.

Which ever method you choose, I feel it is vital that you honour the wishes of the person who requested it upon their death.

When my brother died, he had left instructions that his ashes were to be spread in various places in Ontario and a few in PEI. If you are of the mind that you will be reincarnated, this may become tricky; however we did do this for him. As this was not technically legal, we were very subversive in carrying out his instructions.

My brother had a certain sardonic sense of humour. I was to spread his ashes at the place where he worked, the place he lived most of his adult life, the grounds of the house where he lived when he died, and the garden at the house we grew up in. The first three were relatively easy and all in the same City. The last, not so much! Our old house had been torn down and a huge mansion built in its place and most of the garden had disappeared but there were a few bushes near the road just off their driveway.

My older brother and my best friend had come with me for moral support. He, however, parked the car at the end of the road in case the cops came and they could make a quick getaway leaving me to explain the situation. That’s a different kind of support! I had some of the ashes in a film canister and casually dropped them in the bushes as I languidly walked by the driveway. Thankfully no one came out to ask what I was doing, no alarms went off, no dogs barking, etc. We had pulled it off!

Even though there was some concern on my part, I respected his wishes and I hope that when my time comes, my family will respect mine. How would you like your remains to be scattered? Were there some methods I have left out that you would prefer?

A tiny Principality between Austria and Switzerland

It was established in 1719 and achieved full independence in 1866.
Situated between Austria and Switzerland, Liechtenstein is one of only two doubly landlocked countries (along with Uzbekistan) in the world. The capital city is Vaduz.

It spans about 62 square miles, making it the sixth smallest country on Earth. (Following Vatican City, Monaco, Nauru, Tuvalu, and San Marino). It has a population of about 39,000. The terrain is mountainous, ideal for skiing, and largely covered by the Alps. It is a parliamentary monarchy with a Prince (Head of State) who holds significant political powers, including vetoing legislation.

Vaduz Castle (German: Schloss Vaduz) is the palace and official residence of the Prince of Liechtenstein. In 1984, Prince Franz Joseph handed over power and everyday duties of the monarch to Hans-Adam, with Hans-Adam thus becoming regent, while his father remained the nominal monarch.

Following his father’s death in 1989, Hans-Adam officially ascended to the throne. On August 15, 2004, Hans-Adam formally handed the power of making day-to-day governmental decisions to his eldest son Hereditary Prince Alois as regent, as a way of beginning a dynastic transition to a new generation.

Legally, Hans-Adam remains the head of state. Hans-Adam is no mere figurehead prince. He is much wealthier and much more powerful than Britain’s Charles III, with a fortune of $12.6 billion, according to Bloomberg. This is 25 percent more than the annual GDP of “his” country, over which his family exercises complete control.

German is the official language. The population is predominately Roman Catholic. You can explore the entirety of this tiny country by walking its 75-kilometre-long national trail from Balzers on the Swiss border to Schaanwald on the Austrian one if one were so inclined. Known for a strong banking sector and tax-efficient system.

The currency used in Liechtenstein is the Swiss franc. Industry (manufacturing and construction) accounts for 42.2% of the gross domestic product (GDP). The largest branches in Liechtenstein’s strongly export-oriented industrial sector are machine and tool engineering, plant construction, precision instruments, and the dental and food sectors. Liechtenstein disbanded its army in 1868, and has had no standing army since. It also does not have an airport; you normally reach this tiny principality by train and/or bus/ and car.

What’s more fun than looking at some of the tiniest pieces of art? Postal stamps. Like Liechtenstein, they are small but mighty, and you can explore a museum entirely dedicated to Liechtenstein’s unique stamps. This museum is small, so it won’t take a lot of your time, but it’s worth popping in to see Liechtensteinian postage stamps through time. The country began creating postage stamps in the early 20th century, and since then, hundreds of beautiful and meaningful designs have been created. It was part of my mission when I toured Europe to obtain some of these stamps for my brother who was a stamp collector (Philatelist). Sadly, I did not keep any for myself. If interested click on link for the postal museum.

https://www.landesmuseum.li/en/our-museums/postalmuseum

With no photos allowed and a relatively small collection, many visitors seem to find the Liechtenstein Treasure Chamber a bit of a let down. I didn’t find it that way though. While the room is small, it’s packed with unique treasures, including the Liechtenstein royal coronet, an ultra rare ‘Apple Blossom’ Fabergé Egg, and even a piece of moon rock from the Apollo 11 mission.

The 1901 Fabergé Apple Blossom Easter Egg is rumoured to be worth £30 million

For culture lovers, another must-see in Vaduz is the Kunstmuseum Liechtenstein, a contemporary art museum showcasing international and local talent in a striking, modern building. If you are not into modern art, however, it may not be for you. Even if you only get a stamp in your passport, Liechtenstein is worth a visit. Go explore and make memories!

Volkswagen – Punch buggy

In the 1960s, Volkswagens—specifically the ‘Beetle’ and the ‘Microbus’—attained legendary status by serving as both practical transport (more miles to a gallon of gas) and powerful cultural symbols. Their popularity was driven by a combination of affordability (everyday working class and students), mechanical simplicity (easy to repair), and a revolutionary marketing campaign that resonated with a generation looking for an alternative to mainstream American consumerism. Check out “think small” campaign on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8KQVjvmEGk

The car’s modest, unchanging design represented a rejection of “planned obsolescence”—the American trend of changing car styles every year to force new purchases. Young people today would know that term from the Apple and Samsung lawsuit for deliberately slowing down the performance of older models of their phones.

Many critics, consumer advocacy groups, and technology analysts consider the constant upgrading of Windows—specifically the transition from Windows 10 to Windows 11—to be a form of planned obsolescence. This perspective argues that Microsoft is employing a “design to die” approach, where functional hardware is rendered obsolete by software requirements, forcing consumers to purchase new devices.

 Ecclesiastes 1:9 says, “What has been will be again, what has been done will be done again; there is nothing new under the sun.”

The Beetle and Microbus were available, cheap, and relatively reliable by the standards of the 1960s. These were solid assets for a subculture that could be short on funds. Volkswagen managed to fulfill this niche despite its less than savory origins.

In the 1930s, Adolf Hitler commissioned Ferdinand Porsche to design an affordable, reliable car for the German masses—a “Volkswagen”. It was intended to represent Nazi Germany’s engineering superiority.

The production of the Beetle relied on forced labor, including prisoners of war and victims from concentration camps, to build the factory and the vehicles. The Nazis launched a program allowing workers to save for a car by buying stamps. Thousands of Germans paid into this scheme, but when war broke out, the factory pivoted to military production, and not a single civilian customer ever received their promised car, nor were they refunded. So a product of the usual political corruption and fraud that runs rampant today.

How then did the Beetle become a symbol of fun, freedom, and rebellion?

The Volkswagen Beetle became immensely popular in the United States and Canada during the 1960s and 1970s by offering a, reliable, and affordable alternative to the large, fuel-thirsty “land yachts” produced by Detroit at the time. Its success was driven by a combination of, clever marketing, superior engineering for its price point, and its eventual adoption as a counterculture symbol partly through movies like the ‘Herbie’ series, etc.

The punch buggy game involves players spotting Volkswagen Beetles and calling out “punch buggy!” (and colour) when they see one, earning them the right to deliver a (supposedly) gentle punch to a fellow passenger’s arm. And that’s really the whole game: The first person to spot a VW Bug and call it out gets to punch someone. Simple but possibly quite bruising to one’s arm. We still play it today but since volkswagens have all but disappeared around our area, we don’t play as frequently. I have heard though that the VW beetle is supposed to be making a comeback in 2026. Fingers crossed!

WHIMSY IN GRIMSBY

Grimsby, Ontario, is a town located on the southern shore of Lake Ontario. It serves as the westernmost municipality of Niagara, situated west of Hamilton and east of St. Catharines. Bordered to the south by the Niagara Escarpment and known as the “gateway to Niagara” it is roughly 25-30 km east of Hamilton, and about 80-90 km southwest of Toronto and accessible from the QEW.

In this picturesque town is a neighbourhood of unique and quite extraordinary houses that will pull at the Alice in Wonderland child inside you. As people do live here; if you visit, you should be respectful of their properties and not trespass unless invited in.

“Collectively known as the Painted Ladies” – An amazing collection of a couple dozen century cottages. Each has it’s own unique, whimsical painting scheme. Today, most of the cottages have been renovated and have become year-round houses. They are colorfully painted in shades of yellow, blue, pink, purple, and green and meticulously maintained by their owner occupants. If you are in the area, you should definitely stop and take a walk around, maybe dip your toes in the historical beach a few streets away.